ANDRIJANA RISTIĆ
Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade, Serbia
andrijana.ristic@mpu.rs
MODNA ŠTAMPA U SRBIJI U XX VEKU
FASHION PRESS IN SERBIA IN THE 20 CENTURY
Journal 11/2015 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 7-17
Article category: original scientific paper
UDC:
070.48:391(497.11)"19"
050:391(497.11)"19"
Abstract (original language):
Tema priloga je analiza modne štampe u Srbiji tokom XX veka kao prenosioca modnih novosti i čuvara stereotipa o ženskim potrebama, obavezama i mogućnostima. Modni časopisi se tokom čitavog XX veka ne mogu posmatrati odvojeno od ženske štampe, čije su modne rubrike, ilustracije i fotografije takođe doprinosile afirmaciji određenih važećih modela, istovremeno utičući i na formiranje ukusa i javnog mnjenja. Izvore i građu za proučavanje ove teme pružili su fondovi Muzeja primenjene umetnosti, Univerzitetske biblioteke „Svetozar Marković“, Biblioteke grada Beograda, kao i privatna kolekcija Miloša Jurišića.
Početkom XX veka i posebno u periodu između dva svetska rata, štampa u Srbiji pratila je evropske modele, što se može posmatrati u širem kontekstu uspona masovne kulture, dok se po završetku Drugog svetskog rata, formira nova, socijalistička kultura. Od sredine pedesetih godina XX veka stilski uzori će se ponovo tražiti na Zapadu, ali će biti reinterpretirani u skladu s društveno važećim ukusima socijalističke zajednice. Za kraj šezdesetih i sedamdesete godine karakterističan je uspon jugoslovenskog modnog dizajna, dok su devedesete godine obeležene gašenjem mnogih domaćih časopisa i usmeravanjem pažnje na inostrane naslove i njihovu ponudu.
Cilj rada je da modnu štampu posmatra i analizira u kontekstu perioda u kojima su pojedini časopisi bili aktuelni, kao i da na primeru ovog fenomena masovne kulture ukaže na društvene i političke promene u Srbiji XX veka.
Key words: (original language)
modna štampa, Srbija, XX vek
Summary:
The paper offers an analysis of fashion press in Serbia in the 20th century as a medium that both transferred fashion news and fostered stereotypes about women's needs, obligations and opportunities. Fashion magazines cannot be analyzed separately from women's press, whose sections dedicated to fashion, illustrations and photographs contributed to the affirmation of some established models, while also influencing the shaping of taste and public opinion. By placing individual journals in the context of the period when they were current, and when their design and content were being changed, it is possible to trace a whole series of social and political changes in Serbia in the 20th century. The same magazines often had the role of arbiters of fashion taste and served as a source of practical advice in times of crisis and saving.
In the early 20th century and especially between the two world wars, in accordance with the rise of mass culture, press in Serbia followed the models set by European press.
Quite oppositely, after World War II, a new socialist culture took shape which would, since the mid-1950s, begin to seek stylistic models in the West, reinterpreting them according to the then current tastes of the socialist community. The period of economic growth led to a rise in the standard of living and an increased consumer spending, which was reflected in the press through regular reporting on fashion shows, the rise of the national textile industry and Yugoslav fashion design, especially in the late 1960s and throughout the 1970s.
Products of fashion industry originating in the West were carefully selected for reproduction in magazines in accordance with the need to meet the classical ideals of a socialist dress code. By the end of the 1980s, women's press included an increasing number of texts on fashion, which influenced the shaping of individual desires to imitate international models, while in the 1990s many national magazines were discontinued and attention was switched to international ones and their offer.
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