ANA SAMARDŽIĆ
Nezavisna istraživačica, Beograd, Srbija
samardzic.ana@gmail.com
ESKAPIZAM U FANTASTIČNO: Kuća Dior i nove video-forme prezentacije kolekcija visoke mode
ESCAPISM INTO THE FANTASTIC: The House of Dior and the New Video Forms of Presentations of Haute Couture Collections
Zbornik 17/2021 (Muzej primenjene umetnosti), strana 67-75
Kategorija članka: pregledni rad
UDK:
7.038.53:791]:7.05
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COBISS.SR-ID 53995785
Apstrakt:
Velike modne kuće su, nakon globalnih promena izazvanih pandemijom virusa korone 2020. godine, stavljene pred izazov i po pitanju održavanja revija i promovisanja i prezentacije novih kolekcija, kako visoke mode, tako i industrijske konfekcije. Pojedine modne kuće opredelile su se za višeminutne video-prezentacije visokokvalitetne produkcije plasirane putem interneta sa ciljem da se njihova publika upozna sa novim kolekcijama i usled otežanih okolnosti, ali i da se iskaže kreativnost različitih autora i stvori jedna sinteza umetnosti. Kuća Dior je svoju kolekciju visoke mode za jesen-zimu 2020–2021. godine predstavila takvim eksperimentalnim videom Mit Dior, a potom i kolekciju za proleće-leto 2021. godine videom Zamak tarota. Oba videa služe se likovnim jezikom fantastične umetnosti i vizuelne kulture, koristeći brojne reference iz klasične mitologije i mitologije zodijaka, kojima su inspirisane obe kolekcije visoke mode. Cilj rada je da se, kroz analizu oba videa, Diorove modne kreacije dovedu u vezu sa mitovima i motivima fantastične umetnosti, objasne uzori i inspiracije nastanka ovih promotivnih, ali i umetničkih videa, i ispita učinkovitost takvog načina prezentacije visoke mode.
Ključne reči:
video-prezentacija, visoka moda, Kristijan Dior, mitologija, fantastična umetnost
Summary:
The House of Dior produced two films Le mythe Dior and Le château du tarot for their autumn-winter 2020-2021 and spring-summer 2021 haute couture collections. These films were made as it was impossible for the fashion houses to organise fashion shows, and present and promote their new collections due to the 2020/21 coronavirus pandemic. Both of Dior's high-quality films were distributed via the Internet with the aim of presenting Dior's new collections to its audience even in such difficult circumstances. They were made as an expression of creativity and synthesis of art. A large team of people from the fashion and film industry stands behind both films, and both of them use the visual language of fantasy, and in many ways refer to classical and zodiac mythology, which inspired Dior's both collections. Two main authors leading the team are Maria Grazia Chiuri, fashion designer and creative director at Dior, and Matteo Garrone, film director and writer. Using multitude of luxurious textiles with handcrafted details in both collections, Chiuri found inspiration in female artists of surrealism for the first collection, while Garrone's film was inspired by art of romanticism and symbolism, telling a story about Théâtre de la Mode in an imaginative, mythological world. For the second collection, Chiuri chose tarot symbols, motifs and figures, while Garrone translated them into the story of a girl who finds herself on an introspective journey. They succeeded in making real pieces of art with reference to Dior himself and his interests in magic, flowers, femininity, fortune-telling and fantasy, thus showing that his myth continues.
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