BOJANA JOKIĆ ILIĆ
Nezavisni istraživač, Beograd, Srbija
jokicbojana@yahoo.com

VOJNA UNIFORMA I MODA U SRBIJI OD SREDINE 19. VEKA DO POČETKA 20. VEKA
MILITARY UNIFORM AND FASHION FROM THE MIDDLE 19^TH TO THE BEGINNING OF 20^TH CENTURY

Zbornik 16/2020 (Muzej primenjene umetnosti), strana 19-27

Kategorija članka: originalni naučni rad

UDK:
355.141(497.11)˝18/19˝
6875.01(497.11)˝18/19˝

Apstrakt:
U radu se razmatra odnos vojne uniforme i modernog evropskog modnog sistema u Srbiji od sredine 19. veka. Uniforma i moderno modno odevanje su dva fenomena koja stupaju na pozornicu Srbije u 19. veku i oba su vezana za procese modernizacije Srbije prema evropskim uzorima. Bez obzira na to što su oba učestvovala u konstrukciji društvene i kulturne stvarnosti Srbije modernog doba, oni su retko razmatrani zajedno. Činilo nam se da bi poređenje uniforme s „modernom modom” bilo pogodna tema za sagledavanje pojedinih aspekata uniforme srpske vojske od sredine 19. do početka 20. veka kojima do sada nije bila posvećena velika pažnja. Teorije i pristupi nastali u okviru novijih studija mode i odevanja plodonosni su za razmatranja društvenih funkcija i značenja uniforme i prevazilaze razmatranje odnosa ove dve vrste odevanja na morfološkom međuuticaju, kako su uglavnom modno i vojno odevanje povezivani u okviru istorije kostima.

Ključne reči:
vojna moda, Srbija, 19–20. vek, društvena istorija

Summary:
Encouraged by the studies of clothing and fashion, we have observed the uniform and fashion clothing in Serbia from the middle of the 19^th to the beginning of the 20^th century. We have paid special attention to the performativity of the Serbian army uniform, which is what it has in common with modern fashion clothing, and it relates to the discipline of the individual, the fixation of identity and social differentiation.

Attention has been drawn to the changes in the appearance of the Serbian army during the 19^th and at the beginning of the 20^th century, which fits into the main trends of European military fashion. The uniform, as modern clothing, encouraged a new way of production, and the officer's suit was an incentive for the development of consumer culture in Serbia. It was also an important constituent in fixating social identities.

Men's civilian suit was often described as 'uniform', while the colourful vividness and decorativeness of the uniform were the characteristics that brought it closer to the way a woman's body was dressed. Due to its splendour, the parade uniform, like a woman's dress, attracted attention, but other types of military clothing were also in service of constant supervision over the uniformed body in public. Military uniform shared strict rules of wearing with men's clothing, depending on the occasion, which was another way of disciplining an individual.

Comparing military uniforms and civilian clothing, noticing their similarities and differences from the point of view of their meanings and functions in society, provides an opportunity to better understand the role that clothing in Serbia in the 19^th century had in the construction of collective identity.

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