DRAGANA FRFULANOVIĆ
Akademija strukovnih studija Južna Srbija
Odsek za tehnološko umetničke studije Leskovac
dfrfulanovic@gmail.com
OGLAVLJE NA PORTRETU KTITORKE BOGORODIČINE CRKVE U DONJOJ KAMENICI
HEADDRESS ON THE KTITOR’S PORTRAIT OF THE CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY IN DONJA KAMENICA
Zbornik 19/2023 (Muzej primenjene umetnosti), strana 64-73
Kategorija članka: pregledni rad
UDK:
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Apstrakt:
Srednjovekovno portretno slikarstvo u okviru ktitorskih kompozicija, kao najčešćem obliku oficijelnog portretisanja, predstavlja značajan izvor koji nam otkriva kakav je bio način odevanja i ukrašavanja srednjovekovne vlastele. Predmet istraživanja jeste portret ktitorke u Bogorodičinoj crkvi u Donjoj Kamenici i njen način ukrašavanja kroz oglavlje, kao i traženje njemu uporedivih modela u portretnom fresko-ansamblu poznosrednjovekovnog Balkana. Jedinstvenost oglavlja donjokameničke ktitorke ogleda se kroz složenu obradu nakita, zrakastih naušnica i metalnih aplikacija, ukomponovanih nesvakidašnjom formom sa dvema maramama i specifičnom formom kape. To uslovljava studiozniji pristup u sagledavanju načina pokrivanja glava kod žena u portretnom fresko-slikarstvu na prostoru zemalja vizantijske kulturne sfere i pronalaženje srodnih modela. Razmatranjem odabranih varijeteta vlastelinskog oglavlja, u njihovoj celini ili u pojedinim detaljima, s primenjenim materijalom i tehnikama, moguće je pronaći uporedive elemente sa oglavljem donjokameničke ktitorke, što vodi komparativnoj analizi i pronalaženju mesta ovakvoj vrsti vlastelinskog oglavlja u modi prve polovine XIV veka. Načinjenom studijom ukazuje se i na specifičnosti oglavlja donjokameničke ktitorke koje je nastalo iz jedinstvenog spoja elemenata, poput nakita, koji su prepoznatljivi i na drugim vlastelinskim prikazima, i onih bez poredbenih primera u ovom miljeu, čije poreklo treba tražiti u regionalnim odlikama narodnog odevanja.
Ključne reči:
ktitorka, ktitorska kompozicija, nakit, naušnice, oglavlje, portret
Summary:
The portrait of the founder of the Church of the Virgin Mary in Donja Kamenica has attracted attention by its unusual exemplar of covering and decorating the head, i.e. the headdress. It consists of a cap, two scarves and jewelry in the form of earrings, as well as a diadem and metal applications. The unusualness of this headdress is reflected in the combination of elements that form a complex structure with no adequate example in 14th century medieval portrait fresco painting. The ktitor wears a cap of an unusual shape, for which it is impossible to find similar examples among the portraits of the landlady. It is difficult to determine the material from which it was made, although it was unquestionably a template in the styling of the headpiece with two scarves. The case of wearing two scarves is well known, albeit not in combination with a cap. The shape of the cap of the founder of Donja Kamenica remains unidentified, but examples of folk clothing in the area of the Timok Valley point to a regional variety that may have originated from folk costumes. This complex headdress is decorated with expensive jewelry in the form of lunula earrings, combined with metal applications. Compared with the portraits of other noblewomen and archaeological findings, it has been established that it involves a more recent type of jewelry made using complex techniques of gold or silver and with the application of pearls. The portrait, or more precisely the headdress of the founder of Donja Kamenica, reflects a woman’s desire and need for beautification, though in accordance with the potentials of her family and following current trends, while at the same time making a connection with the local forms of clothing.
Translated by the author
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