IVANA BAKAL
Faculty of Textile Technology of the University of Zagreb, Department of Textile and Fashion Design – Graduate Programme in Costume Design, Croatia
ivanabakal@gmail.com

TRANSFER ZNANJA U RADIONICAMA PRIMIJENJENE KOSTIMOGRAFIJE NA VELIKIM OPERNIM PROJEKTIMA ZAGREBAČKOG SVEUČILIŠTA: kazališni projekt Orfej i Euridika (Zagreb)
KNOWLEDGE TRANSFER IN THE APPLIED COSTUME DESIGN WORKSHOPS IN LARGE OPERA PROJECTS AT THE UNIVERSITY OF ZAGREB: Theatre Project Orpheus and Eurydice (Zagreb)

Journal 12/2016 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 63-71

Article category: scientific review

UDC:
378.147.314.6(497.5)”2014”
792.023/.024(497.5)

Abstract (original language):
U radu se kontekstualiziraju povijest, afirmacija i profesionalizacija kostimografske struke gledano kroz prizmu praktičnog rada studenata i transfera znanja između mentora i studenta i obrnuto na velikom kazališnom projektu Orfej i Euridika. Projekat je rezultat suradnje fakulteta u sklopu Sveučilišta u Zagrebu (Muzičke akademije, Akademije dramske umjetnosti, Akademije likovnih umjetnosti i Tekstilnotehnološkog fakulteta). U sklopu projekta studenti kostimografije Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta stekli su praktično iskustvo neophodno za rad u profesionalnom kazalištu. Slobodnim mentorskim pristupom u vidu obostranog transfera znanja – mentora koji studentima prenosi svoje znanje stečeno u obrazovnom sustavu i kroz cjeloživotni praktičan rad, i studenata koji svojom svježinom i mladenačkom inovativnošću prenose svoj entuzijazam na mentora – stvorena je kostimografija jedinstvenog rukopisa čiji su autori studenti. Diplomski studij kostimografije na Tekstilnotehnološkom fakultetu time je opravdao svoje postojanje upravo u sklopu navedene matične institucije, na kojoj je studentima omogućeno teorijsko i praktično obrazovanje u sklopu likovno-tekstilno-tehnoloških radionica izrade kostima na fakultetu i u sklopu međufakultetske suradnje na realizaciji predstave. Uspješnost ovakvoga tipa rada ogleda se i u činjenici da je projekt dobio dvije Rektorove nagrade1 i da je uvršten na Praški kvadrijenale (PQ 2015), u sklopu studentske nacionalne sekcije Hrvatske. Autorica teksta je u projektu sudjelovala kao mentor studenata kostimografije. Ovaj rad posvećen je istraživanju obrazovnog sustava kostimografije na hrvatskim visokoobrazovnim umjetničkim institucijama kroz povijest, te rezultatima praktičnog rada na studentskim projektima danas.

Key words: (original language)
kazališni projekt, kostimografija, mentorski pristup, praktični rad na predstavi, transfer znanja.

Summary:
The paper contextualizes history, the affirmation and the professionalization of the vocation of a costume designer through the prism of student practical work and knowledge transfer while working on a large theatre project Orpheus and Eurydice, carried out jointly by four faculties within the University of Zagreb. It offers an analysis of the mentor–student knowledge transfer and vice versa, as well as a comprehensive overview of student work, largely inspired by the Bauhaus school of art. The paper demonstrates the successful outcome of the collaboration between the mentor and the students reflected in a unique imprint on the whole body of costumes, which looked as if they had been created by a single designer. This is an example of original visual qualities and the excellent workmanship demonstrated by the students in creating costumes adjusted to the requirements of the performance and made in the tailoring, painting and sculpturing workshops (established specially for this purpose) within the Faculty of Textile Technology. A liberal approach on the part of the mentor in the form of mutual knowledge transfer – in which a mentor transfers to the students the knowledge gained through the education system, as well as through life-long practical work, while students, with their fresh approach and youthful innovation, transfer their enthusiasm to the teacher/mentor – led to the creation of costumes whose authors were the costume students, while the teacher/mentor expanded her knowledge and her creative limits through collaboration with students while creating the visual imprint of the opera production. The project received two Rector's Awards and was selected for the Prague Quadrennial (PQ 2015) as part of the Croatian national student selection. The Graduate Programme in Costume Design at the Faculty of Textile Technology has justified its existence under the auspices of this institution, where students are offered an opportunity to get both theoretical and practical training at art, textile and technology workshops dedicated to costume making and organized by the Faculty of Textile Technology within the inter-faculty collaboration at the University of Zagreb aimed at creating a stage production.

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