DRAGINJA MASKARELI
Muzej primenjene umetnosti, Beograd
draginja.maskareli@mpu.rs

TRI HALJINE U MUZEJU: MUZEJSKI TEZAURUSI I MODA U SRBIJI U XIX I POČETKOM XX VEKA
THE THREE DRESSES IN THE MUSEUM: MUSEUM THESAURI AND FASHION IN SERBIA IN THE 19^TH AND EARLY 20^TH CENTURIES

Zbornik 19/2023 (Muzej primenjene umetnosti), strana 53-63

Kategorija članka: originalni naučni rad

UDK:
391(497.11)"18/19"
069.51:745/749(497.11)

Apstrakt:
Javne zbirke odeće predstavljaju jedan od osnovnih izvora za studije mode u Srbiji u XIX i početkom XX veka. Osnovni kriterijum selekcije prilikom formiranja tih zbirki bila su estetska i umetnička svojstva modnih predmeta, kao i njihova nacionalna simbolika. Zbog toga se istraživači mode u Srbiji u XIX i početkom XX veka često suočavaju sa nedovoljno dokumentovanim i sistematizovanim tezaurusima, nerazvijenom terminologijom i nedostupnošću informacija. Segment dokumentacije tezaurusa kome nije bilo posvećeno dovoljno pažnje jesu biografije pojedinačnih predmeta, tako da za mnoge od njih danas ne znamo ko ih je i kada nosio, iako je većina u muzejsku zbirku ušla kao deo porodičnog nasleđa. Na primeru tri muzejska modna predmeta: haljina MPU, inv. br. 5593, 5207 i 22891 iz zbirke Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu, koje su nastale i nošene kao venčane haljine u Srbiji u periodu od 1878. do 1911. godine, ovaj rad prati primenu i upotpunjavanje njihove dokumentacijske mere kroz interpretaciju i komunikaciju na različitim muzejskim izložbama.

Ključne reči:
muzejski tezaurusi, muzealizacija mode, dokumentacijska mera, svedočanstvenost, interpretacija, komunikacija

Summary:
Public collections of clothes are one of the main sources for the studies of fashion in Serbia during the 19^th and early 20^th centuries. The basic selection criteria during the formation of these collections were the aesthetic and artistic values of fashion items, as well as their national symbolics. For that reason, researchers of 19^th and early 20^th-century Serbian fashion often have to cope with insufficiently documented and systematized thesauri, undeveloped terminology, and a lack of information. The biographies of individual items are a segment of the thesaurus documentation that has not been given enough attention; today for many of them we have no information when and by whom they were worn. Using the example of three museum fashion items – dresses, MAA, accession nos. 5593, 5207, and 22891 from the collection of the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade, which were made and worn as wedding dresses in Serbia in the period from 1878 to 1911 – this paper follows the use and development of their documentary measure through interpretation and communication at various museum exhibitions. By comparing the dynamics of their presentation, we can conclude that, in addition to the collecting and exhibition policy of the museum, as well as the properties of the object itself, the documentary measure has an important role in the interpretation and communication of museum thesauri and fashion. In the present time, the three dresses in the Museum, as fashion items worn in Serbia in the past, not only inform us about changes in fashion trends. Considered a part of visual culture, they testify to different cultural models, ideological and social frameworks in which trends were created and developed.

Translated by the author

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